Understanding Sterling Silver Wire

I have been working with sterling silver wire for a few years – long enough that I have been dubbed by my children “The Wire Bender” (they watch way too much Avatar, a cartoon, where the characters are earth, wind, fire, and water benders). I have never taken a formal class on wire wrapping but have learned lots with the help of some really great wire wrapping books and other online web sites. If you are new to wire wrapping, this is a good starting point for learning about sterling silver wire.

Here is a list of terms and their definitions you will probably hear or read regarding wire wrapping at some time or another:

  • Flush cut & pinch cut – A flush cut is created with a flush cutters. When cutting your wire with a flush cutters, one cut creates a nice flat cut on the sterling silver wire and the other cut creates a pinched or wedge-shaped cut. When cutting your sterling silver wire, you want to have a flush cut.
  • Simple loop – this is a loop made at the end of your sterling silver wire
  • Spiral or Scroll – There are a lot of uses for a spiral. I use them as a stop for a bead and I also make them into clasps.
  • Work hardening – Sterling silver wire is made up of large crystals. As the wire is worked with, it hardens. This hardening effect breaks the crystals down into smaller crystals and the wire becomes stiffer and stiffer as the crystals become smaller and smaller. If worked too much, the wire will break.
  • Wrapped loop – This is a loop that is wrapped around the stem wire which creates a secure loop that will not pull open.

Gauges of Wire:

Wire comes in a huge range of different sized gauges. In looking at my American Standard Wire Gauge, the smallest gauge is 38 with the largest being 1……why do the numbers have to be backwards in relation to the gauge size?! Very good reason, actually – the gauge relates to the number of times the sterling silver wire is pulled through holes in steel plates with each pull going through a smaller hole to reach the desired gauge so that means that 28 gauge is pulled through steel plates 28 times to get it that small. The smallest gauge I have used is 28 for crocheting and to date, the largest size I have worked with is 14, and I have used everything in between.

Hardness of wires:

  • Dead soft or soft – Dead soft wire is very malleable, easy to work with and is very widely used by wire wrappers.
  • Half Hard – This wire has some stiffness to it and is likewise very popular with wire wrappers.
  • Hard – I have no experience working with hard wire and to my knowledge, it is not commonly used with wire wrapping because of its rigidity.

I primarily use dead soft wire. I do not worry that it is too soft for a project for a few reasons:

  1. Working with the wire hardens it.
  2. If working with it will not make the wire hard enough, I can work harden it by hammering it with a rawhide or rubber hammer.
  3. If I am making a piece of jewelry with a frame, I am going to use a thick gauge (at least 16) and although dead soft, because of its thickness, the wire is stiff.

Types of Silver:

Sterling silver is 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper. The copper component in sterling silver causes the tarnishing effect. Argentium® is a new type of silver on the market. Argentium is also 92.5% silver but instead of copper, there is germanium which does not tarnish thereby creating a virtually tarnish free silver! I love it, and as I am using up my sterling silver wire supply, I am purchasing Argentium. The price difference between sterling silver wire and Argentium is roughly a dollar an ounce last time I purchased wire through Rio Grande – not bad considering all the time Argentium will save you in not having to clean your wire!

Safety:

The number one rule is to use common sense when working with anything that could potentially be harmful. When you cut your wire, for example, you will end up with a sharp edge on the wire. In addition to this, when you snip a piece of wire, it literally becomes a projectile missile. Be smart! I place my cutters at the point that I want to cut and then cup my hand over the area. The last thing I want to do is go to the local emergency room to have a piece of metal removed from my eye.

Cleaniless:

Work with clean hands. Natural body oils, lotions and creams will only help tarnish your sterling, not to mention that lotioned hands might make the wire difficult to hold onto. Even if you are working with Argentium, wash before starting your project. I get asked all the time how I keep my jewelry so clean – simple! Clean hands.

Also, clean your wire thoroughly before twisting and bending it. I use Connoisseurs Jewelry Wipes which I purchase at Walmart in the jewelry department. They are disposable wipes that will clean your sterling silver wire really well. There are also Sunshine clothes but from a dollar point of view, the Connoisseurs are more economical.

Straightening Your Wire:

When sterling silver wire is purchased, it comes in a coil. This needs to be straightened before using it. There are a couple of ways to straighten your wire: Cut the length of wire desired and either use Connoisseurs to clean and straighten your wire at the same time or if the wire is not being cooperative or is kinked, use a wire straightening (aka nylon jaw) pliers.

Precious Metal Scraps:

Keep your scraps in a closable container (not a baggie – the wire ends will poke through). These scraps are not garbage but can be sold back to a refiner. Some refiners have a minimum weight amount but others don’t. Some will issue you a check for your scraps at market value of sterling silver on the day they receive your shipment and others will give you the choice of a check or new material (new material will have a fabrication fee so be sure to ask about this).

Refining Argentium:

At this time if you are using Argentium and you send it into a refiner and ask for new material, you will get back sterling silver. I am sure this will change in the future, but for now, that is the way things are. Also, if you are like me and are using both sterling silver wire and Argentium wire, you do not need to keep them in separate containers – again, I am sure this will change in the future but currently since the refiners are not making a differentiation between the two, you don’t have to either.

I always ask for the $$ when refining since I am transitioning my stock to Argentium only – I am tired of cleaning my wire!

Storage:

Always store your sterling silver wire and finished jewelry in plastic bags. This will slow down the tarnishing effect tremendously. Rio Grande also carries anti-tarnish zip bags. I have never used these – just letting you know about them. If you end up having several different gauges, a good way to keep everything organized and stored is with a Sterilite (again, Walmart) plastic file folder container. I have hanging folders inside with different gauges in each folder.

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17 Responses to “Understanding Sterling Silver Wire”

  1. Cindy Palance says:

    Nice article. Good discription of the wire, especially for the beginner. The only other thing I would add if I were you is something about .999 Fine Silver Wire. I know when I was just starting out, I would get confused about that. By the way I am still just starting out. I am also going to use the Argentium from now on.

  2. I have never used .999 silver wire and am not knowledgable whatsoever on its properties or uses although the two things that I do know about fine silver is that it can be fused.

    Sterling silver and gold have to be soldered but not fine silver.

    The second thing that I know about fine silver is that is costs more than sterling silver but I am not sure of the cost comparison with Argentium.

  3. Sandy Conder says:

    Thanks for a very helpful article.

  4. Caitie says:

    Thank you very much. I’ve done a little jewelry making, but most of that dealt with soldering (I love college). The only wire wrapping I have done was with copper. I like to have options, so I thought I’d get silver too, but figured it’d be smart to look for some info. Your article was very helpful. I’m totally bookmarking it : )

  5. Joy says:

    Very good information. I have been wire wrapping and teaching for years. I have converted most of my silver wire to fine silver because it does not tarnish, I have found it to be the same price as sterling silver with most of my suppliers, and like Jodi said, above, it can be fused. It also does not blacken when in the flame like sterling silver ( I have not tried Argentium in a flame). I do a lot of wire crochet; it can be a challenge to clean the tarnish on wire crochet. That is why I started using fine silver.
    Enjoy Beading!

  6. Very informative post! Thanks for sharing.

  7. Tammie says:

    I have been making jewelry for about a year now, and believe me, I have made a ton of it. I’ve taken it to 3 shows now and have another coming up. I was reading the comments about the different silvers. I use them all. Just to let you guys know, go to ebay for your wire. The solid silver is cheaper than sterling, and there is Argentium on there. Also a good place to get it is Fishlips3.com. He has the Argentium and anti-tarnish craft wire. You have to call him to order the Argentium. It’s not on his web site yet. His number is on his site. Also all of his silver beads are anti-tarnish. I make all my clasp, rings, and ear wires. But now I am trying to figure out how to make divider strand bars out of silver wire.

  8. Kristen says:

    Thanks for all the helpful info

  9. Suki-Kaur says:

    thank you for a very informative article – just what i was looking for!

  10. Alison says:

    I love Argentium sterling and it DOES fuse VERY well! I have a firebrick and a small butane torch (creme brulee size). I make a circle of argentium, make sure the ends butt together nicely, then hit it with the flame. Pull back at just the right second and you have a perfectly fused ring, waiting to be hammered and tumbled or polished with a dremel (like I do!) It also makes great ball-end headpins that have no firescale! I will NEVER buy regular sterling again!

  11. Kim says:

    Thanks so much for all of the helpful tips! I learned a lot off of this page.

  12. Sazaran says:

    GREAT article!! It helped me in my quest to learn more about wire. Thank you for putting this out there!

  13. This is just what I’ve been looking for. I am always being told I don’t charge enough for my jewelry! Thank you so much for the many helpful hints.

  14. I heard about your blog from somebody on our Facebook page and I thought I would check it out. Thank you so much for this information, I thought it was fantastic!

  15. Doby says:

    Thank you for the great article.

    So if one wants to patina a piece, the only option would be SS wire?!?

    • Hi Doby, Argentium does get dirty and need to be cleaned even though the manufacturer says it doesn’t – at least, that has been my experience with it, not terribly dirty but definitely can be shined up with a cleaning cloth. When I wrote this article a couple years ago, I had full intentions of switching my stock to Argentium but when I saw that it does get dirty, I did not change out my stock. I have never tried Silver Black or LOS on it because I believe that is the entire point of the wire – to keep it from tarnishing but who knows? It might work! If you try it, please post about your findings – it would be interesting to know what you discovered :) And fine silver, if left exposed to air, gets very tarnished/dirty.

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